Local Storage seems to be disabled in your browser.
For the best experience on our site, be sure to turn on Local Storage in your browser.
Make your own Orgonite
Making orgonite is easy!
This is the most important thing I have to tell you on this page.
Many people on the internet and elsewhere are spending a lot of time and money to make you believe it is otherwise.
Orgonite pouring session: Dr. Nyerenga from Malawi learns the ropes
Orgonite always works, even if you think you have it all wrong
The designs of the basic orgonite tools are very error tolerant. When you read about the mix having to be 50/50, that just means that you pour a bucket full of resin into a bucket full of aluminium filings. People have asked me the weirdest questions about how to determine the exact volume of the filings since they come in this woolly state and….
Baking orgonite is much easier than that!
Making beautiful orgonite takes practice and is not that easy, but as much as we all love to make things beautiful, a rough and dirty orgonite TB will neutralise a cell phone tower (death force transmitter) just as well as a high gloss one with neatly arranged gemstone inlays. At first you will need to source resin. Most of us work with simple polyester resin. This comes in different qualities. Preferably use the “clear casting” quality that is also used to embed butterflies and dried flowers into nice clear blocks, often used as key rings or for other decorative purposes. We buy this from industrial wholesalers who cater for the boat building and swimming pool manufacturers. If you have no idea where to get resin in your town, phone the guys who work with fibreglass and ask them where they buy their stuff. Polyester resin stinks a bit when it is curing because of the chemical reaction and release of solvents, so you should always work outside or in a very well ventilated room.
If you plan to do this regularly, get yourself a protective mask (against organic fumes as with spray painters) or build a fan into your room that guarantees at least a 40 x per hour air change.
The resin needs to be mixed with a catalyst that will bring about the chemical reaction that makes the resin cure into a crystalline clear substance. Please follow the instructions of the manufacturer regarding percentage of catalyst to be used etc.
Many people have tried other substances as a matrix in which to suspend the metal filings in, such as beeswax, sugar, tree resins and epoxy resins.
The epoxy and tree resins (when they are treated in a way that they can be cured to a non-sticky crystalline matrix) seem to work OK, but we have not tried it. We have learned to handle the polyester well and find it works so fantastically that we need not look for alternatives. Even sugar seems to work but is of course not exactly weather proof for outside application.
Beeswax has been a great disappointment even though it is still periodically brought up by people who do not like the notion of using a “chemical” material to restore the natural energy balance.
See it in a different way: Isn’t it fun, that we can defeat the plans for global control by the self-proclaimed elite, using exactly the addictive substances that are most pivotal in their global enslavement policies: mineral oil (resin) and sugar.
Next you will need lots of aluminium shavings (some call them filings). You can get these at machine shops that work with aluminium a lot such as window manufacturers sign makers etc...
A lot of people who have read Wilhelm Reich’s works are very prejudiced against aluminium because of some observations that Reich made in connection with his orgone accumulators. He spoke out strongly against aluminium use in accumulators, but nobody in our network has so far found any evidence that this would hold true for orgonite .
Don has also built many classical Reich-style accumulators with aluminium and found no adverse effects. Could it be that another factor, as yet unknown, created the negative results, Reich was reporting?
Last but not least you will need crystals. Clear quartz crystals, that is. But they can also be milky or otherwise of “inferior quality”.
We have even used white and completely opaque quartz chips we found on a mountain near the track we were driving on, to add into some improvised TBs that we had to make when we ran out of ammo in Namibia in September 2004.
They worked well.
For TBs, any small crumbs of crystal breakage will suffice. For HHGs use single terminated crystals, that is, crystals with one naturally formed tip.
For CBs one should preferably use double terminated crystals, which means they have a natural tip in both directions. Even when multiple small tips point all in one direction we still speak of single terminated.
The easiest to start with: making orgonite TBs
TBs or Tower Busters are the easiest to make. That’s why I strongly recommend you start with them. You will get a feeling for working with resin that way which will come in handy when you start making the more sophisticated pieces. We make our TBs in standard muffin moulds, but you can use anything that will hold approximately 100-150 ml (3-5 oz.) of resin and shavings. Plastic or paper cups are also popular.
If you want to re-use the mould, we strongly recommend that you wax it before pouring. We use “silicone release wax” which we get from the place that sells the resin and catalyst. Baking fat will work as well.
We use aluminium filings (or sometimes they’re also called shavings). Other metals work as well. We get best results when the shavings are not too big or too small and sufficiently loose so that the resin can run in between them.
Waxing the form
Shavings the way we like them
Apart from the shavings and resin, the mandatory ingredient is quartz.
You don’t have to use A-grade tips. Any quartz breakage even of a milky or opaque quality will do. We used white quartz pebbles collected from the road with great success on our Namibia expedition when we ran out of TBs.
We like to add some low-grade amethyst because we get it cheaply and it makes the TBs nicer. Also we like to add a few crumbs of black tourmaline. If available, powdered pyrite makes any orgonite much stronger in sheer power.
But again: simplicity is the rule. You do not need any crystals other than quartz in order to achieve stunning results.
Typical ingredients the way we make our TBs
The best resin for orgonite is polyester resin of the so-called “clear casting” quality. It’s the same that is used to cast insects or leaves into decorative key ring pendants and the like. Make sure you go to the industrial suppliers.
Putting the crystals in
Otherwise you will pay a fortune for small quantities.
If you don’t know where to find those suppliers, talk to the guys who work with fibreglass. (Swimming pool and boat builders for example) They will know.
We start with a thin layer of filings and place the crystals on top of this little nest. That way they will end up being approximately at the centre of the finished TB.
We fill the form up to just under the rim. If you want to add some crushed pyrite or tourmaline, you can sprinkle it over the top layer in the end.
Now we can start the pouring procedure. We need the resin, and a suitable quantity of catalyst. The resin suppliers normally sell special measuring bottles for the catalyst and we recommend that you get one if it is not supplied for free.
We also recommend that you use industrial strength rubber gloves for the larger works while surgical latex gloves are good for finer work. If you plan to do this often you should get yourself a mask with a filter against organic solvent vapours. You do not really need that if you can work outside.
What you need for pouring
Wear a mask if you frequently do this inside. Make sure rooms are well ventilated.
Use bucket with measurements
Pour a sufficient quantity of resin into a bucket with measurements.
For one standard muffin tray, we use approximately 1.1-1.2 litres.
Measure the needed quantity of catalyst
With most makes of resin the standard mix is 2% catalyst at 20C. But beware: temperature and size of the piece you want to pour influence the need for catalyst. The hotter it gets or the bigger the piece, the least catalyst you need. Refer to resin manufacturer’s manual for exact quantities.
Pour catalyst into resin
Add pigments if you want colour
Pour into small jug with spout for easier pouring
And start pouring
Since the resin takes a while to sink in you will have to pour in several passes. It is always good to have a few more objects prepared on the side that can take any surplus resin in case you have miscalculated the quantity.
You have (depending on the make of the resin and room temperature etc.) 15-25 minutes to do this. That is normally not a problem. If you feel that the resin is becoming jelly-like before you are finished, quickly mix the remaining resin with metal filings to make at least some kind of usable orgonite . Keeping your bucket and jugs clean helps to avoid premature gelling.
Continue until muffin pan is filled to the rim
When the process is finished, you have to wait a while. The resin will now start its chemical reaction during which it will get quite hot. If you have used the right amount of catalyst, the TBs should be easily removed after curing by just turning the pan upside down. A few gentle taps with a rubber hammer are sometimes needed.
If the mix has not cured properly (too cold or not enough catalyst) it can be put in direct sunlight to give it some after-curing.
The next step: making HHGs
For making HHGs you want a conical mould. We use ordinary household funnels because the ones we have found have a nice proportion with the base as well as the height being 100mm. But many other forms have been successfully tried: from conical paper party hats to cocktail glasses.
You have to close the nozzle in some elegant way. We used to do that with window putty which could be shaped any way we wanted but now we make a small cone of masking tape that we insert with the sticky side facing outwards.
Apart from the filings you need 5 single terminated crystals 30-40mm in length. Additional healing stones are optional. We use crushed black tourmaline and a few of our low grade amethyst pebbles to beautify the energy emanating from the HHG.
Nozzle closed with masking tape
Our ingredients: 5 mandatory crystals, optional amethyst and tourmaline.
We start by putting a few filings into the top in order to make a nest for the top crystal. We want all the crystals to be embedded in the orgonite . See the following picture sequence for the further procedure.
Make a nest for the top crystal
Place top crystal into nest with tip facing downwards (up in finished HHG)
Add more filings and some of the optional additional stones, if you wish
Add more stones as you build up in layers (optional)
Place the bottom crystals in a cross formation.
Leave enough space for the crystals to be covered with a thin layer of filings
Until they are invisible
Repeat several times until no more air bubbles come up and funnel is filled to the rim.
This is how the finished product comes out of the mould.
Now you only need to break the rough edge with a file (or a sanding disk) and sand it until smooth. That’s only if you want to make it into a nice piece of art, of course. The full power is there without the cosmetics. Of course any other conical mould will do the job. Cocktail glasses, party hats – anything will do.
There are other variations to the theme such as the ones that Don makes nowadays. They only have a crystal in the tip and a clockwise spiral (from the bottom up) is replacing the four bottom crystals.
Finally: Build your own orgonite Cloudbuster
Again, this is only one way to make a functioning orgonite CB. Following these instructions will give you enough of a feel for the matter to deviate from the procedure wherever you feel it would lead to better results.
The standard pipe length according to the inventor of this device is 6’ or approximately 1800mm.
The recommended pipe diameter for a standard CB is 28mm that is almost but not quite the same as the US 1-1/4”
The crystals may already be fitted inside the short pipe ends. We mostly insert them afterwards and fix them with a bit of resin.
In Don’s original instruction they are wrapped into a short piece of garden hose and glued into the bottom end of the pipe.
That’s what goes into the bucket
The short pipe ends should be closed with a stop fitting (standard from plumbing suppliers) or a copper plate soldered on (see picture below). It is intended that the pipes form a resonant cavity, so the bottom should not be open. One could use thin foils to close it.
Short pipe ends with bottom plates and connectors soldered on
We use 3 of our standard spacer disks to connect the long pipe ends to a stable rig. We have found that better than inserting special spacers into the bucket as in Don’s original instruction.
Long pipe ends forming a stable rig
This is how we make our disks. All dimensions are in mm.
Wax bucket with silicone release agent.
Stick short pipe ends onto the rig
Insert into bucket
You may have noticed that we have already prepared a bottom plate in a previous pouring session. We don’t want the pipes to go through to the very bottom but rather want them embedded in orgonite . We make that plate approximately 20mm thick.
Place the rig upright
Apply some preliminary bracing
We always put it up next to a table. After applying some bracing, we start to make sure that it’s really standing upright and the distance to the border of the bucket is equal on all sides. It helps when the floor is level, of course. Otherwise you should use a piece of wood levelled with some wedges as floor. By looking at the pipes from various directions with one squinted eye, you can also ensure that they are parallel and not “drilled”.
Laozu’s vortex buster is something else. There you want the pipes “drilled” in a spiralling motion. So don’t be afraid if you don’t get them totally straight. Your CB will work nevertheless.
It is amazing how error tolerant these designs are. As long as you end up with six copper tubes with some sort of crystal in the closed bottom, sticking in a bucketful of resin-metal mix in a halfway circular arrangement, you will have a powerful working cloud buster at hand.
Make sure the pipes are level
Now you can start filling up with filings
We fill up to about 2/3 of the intended height. This allows us to pour a substantial amount of resin in one go which will be pushed into the filings by its own gravity. We put in some “misfired” TBs or other orgonite that hasn’t passed the quality test. That way we can prevent cracks even when pouring in one go. Some people still advise pouring in layers. We don’t really like it because it takes very long and resin always runs behind the finished parts, resulting in an uneven and messy surface.
It is advisable to pour only from one side so that air can still escape on the other side. It helps to have a translucent bucket because then you can see how far the resin has penetrated.
Depending on the texture of your metal filings, you may also premix the orgonite and pour the mix of filings and liquid resin. That way you can prevent air bubbles more easily, but it is also messier.
Resin almost down to the bottom
Fill up and pour to centre of connectors
Once the resin has saturated all the filings, we fill up with filings to 1cm under desired height which is in the middle of the connectors. We do that quickly, so we can still use the same resin “wet in wet”.
It is important to do this in one session with the same resin. Otherwise you’ll have to wait about 2 hours and get the problems described previously when pouring in layers.
This is how the raw CB base will look like
In most cases you will find that the surface of the raw base might need a final “glazing” coat for aesthetic purposes.
The easiest way to do this is by just taping a rim with masking tape. Small irregularities in the tape will be filed and sanded away afterwards when you break the sharp edge.
Pouring a smooth top coating with tape
This is how our finished cloudbusters look.
Yours may look slightly different.
It is very difficult to build a “bad” one. In Uganda we built one with the only copper tubing we could get and that was 22 mm on a roll. We had to straighten it by hand on a concrete floor, so it was never straight and we had no end caps, only chocolate paper to seal the pipes at the bottom.
We also had no pure quartz crystals but only amethyst with some quartz veins. Despite its irregular shape its influence was perceptible for hundreds of kilometres around its location in Kampala.
SP-Crystals and Mobius coils
Text from Ryan McGinty’s article on www.ethericwarriors.com with permission of the author.
Photos courtesy of Ryan Mc Ginty
The items you will need:
One cordless drill.1 spool of 30 gauge aluminium wire from Radioshack, comes in red, blue and white in 50ft. Do not get the magnet wire that is copper. The copper is very stiff while wrapping, also the enamel insulator easily scrapes off causing minute shortages.
First select a length of wire that will be appropriate for the size of crystal. Very small crystals will need only three feet of wire, larger ones with a diameter of 1 inch or larger will need 20-25 feet or more, the whole spool for giant crystals.
Fold the wire in half, and then fold that in half again.
You are basically folding the wire into quarters.
Now take the end where both ends are bent, place them into the locking chuck of your cordless drill.
The easiest way to keep them together evenly in the drill is by starting a small twist to hold them together.
Set the drill direction so that it will remove a screw (lefty loosie).
With your other hand, hold onto the end with the two leads. Make sure you keep good tension while the drill is rotating. This will minimise irregularities. If the wire is longer than your arm span, have someone help hold it or clamp it to a sturdy stand.
You will know the wire is correctly wound when the thread angles are at 45 degrees.
Hold your crystal and wire like so.
You will be doing a counter clockwise wrap that works upwards.
Here is how you start your first knot.
Notice that the knot goes over, down, up-around.
It is basically a square knot. Keep this knot a little loose because you will need the space for the remaining knots.
Now repeat the process.
You will notice the wire working upwards while the knot keeps getting larger. Start pulling the wire tight.
This is what it looks like going around a third time.
Each time you start a new knot you start just before the last one. Remember to keep the wraps tight. This will ensure you do not have any wires overlapping on the back.
Here is the finished result.
You will notice that the knots start right after the previous one begun. Use glue to hold wires in place, a hot glue gun or good works great. Strip the ends and you got your self an SP!
If you notice the knots are getting too difficult to overlap then start another row the same way as the first. Pull the excess just a little above the first Mobius wrap, wrap the wire around CCW then make the knot and keep repeating as many times as needed.
It’s basically a simple pattern that is repeated.
Ryan Mc Ginty
All other orgonite tools are basically derivatives of these four. Master the basics first and especially make hundreds of tower busters. Then start cleaning up your area from negative energies. It is a great journey to embark on and you'll never regret it!